Taj Mahal at Sunset

Free Independant Travel

Free independant travel (FIT) in India is the mother of all travel. It was the most adventurous, exciting, and educational trip we have ever taken. It was also the most tiring, difficult, and stressful. “The best of times and the worst of times”.. ….sound familiar? The ghats along the Ganges River in Varanasi, the Taj Mahal at sunset, and the palaces at Udaiphur, more than made up for the difficulties. However, we’ll never forget the plight of the poor people you see everywhere. Such beauty and misery…in one place.

The Shopping Scene

Jaipur, Rajasthan was our shopping venue. We were interested in buying some traditional Rajasthani puppets and hippy-type, colorful, cotton, shoulder bags. (Please click on the small photos in the right margin.) We first went to the big, government-run, arts and crafts store to check for availability and prices. Armed with that information, we went out into the market place, across the street, to locate similar items. Luckily, we found them in the small shops. The shop keepers were happy to offer better selections and prices.

More to Come

India is an eye-full… lots of things to buy. Next month we are off to Medan, in northern Sumatra, Indonesia to check out the crafts scene there. Please join us again by subscribing to our weblog. Your comments are welcome.

Keep in mind that travel guide books are nothing more than a guide, because the budget hotel scene in Asia can change significantly in 6 months. What was nice and clean in July could be a dump in December. And, who knows when the guide book was written?

The online travel forums are more up to date, but I sometimes wonder if many of the contributors are merely looking to see their words in print rather than giving travelers some good information about a place. Like, who cares if the hotel owner didn’t strike up a friendship? Maybe he/she was busy… or shy. Does the owner’s personality really matter if the hotel is centrally located, and the room is clean and comfortable… at the price you want to pay?

I don’t recommend showing up in a strange city at night without a hotel reservation. Therefore, you should take a calculated stab in the dark and make a reservation, like I’m doing. However, I do recommend you arrange your transportation to get you to your on-going destinations during daylight hours, if possible. Then, with the use of your guide book, go to the neighborhood with the most budget hotels, and make the rounds on foot. Always look at the room before moving in. Shop around for unexpected bargains. Good things can happen, and it usually doesn’t take much time.

Our track record for finding good budget hotels is excellent when we do the afternoon walk-in, and sometimes less than great when we make a reservation from afar… like I’m doing today. Thankfully, we will only pre-book the first night of this trip.

Ban Tawai (near Chiangmai), Thailand

A Free Trip

I’ve met a few people who travel to Southeast Asia on vacation, buying arts and crafts as they moved from one tourist destination to another. The object was to sell the items at flea markets when they got home. Hopefully, their profits would pay for the trip.

Not a bad idea, eh? It got me thinking, especially after reading the recent newsletters by Skip McGrath at Auction Sellers Resource. He talks about the problems many eBay Sellers have, sourcing new and unique products…at the right price.

eBay Sellers…all work and no play?

Why not combine your vacation with a buying trip, especially if the trip can pay for itself and solve some of your product sourcing problem? Contrary to belief – although oil prices are high, airfares to Asia are coming down.

Keep an eye open for some Asian LCCs (low-cost carriers) expanding into Australia, Europe,and the United States in the near future…like in a couple of months! The ones to watch are: AirAsia, Tiger Airways, and JetStar.

Getting around Asia

There are plenty of LCC flights (currently available) to get around to the best arts and crafts venues. What’s even nicer, those great shopping areas in Southeast Asia are also some of the most interesting tourist sites. Decent low-price hotels are everywhere.

Think about it

If we have attracted your attention with this idea, please take a look at some of our previous postings for more (how-to) details. Also, your comments and ideas are welcome.

Why not kill 2 birds with one stone, especially if you need the product? Tax deductible vacation?

Kanchanaburi, Thailand

This place has haunted me since I first saw the 1957 movie of the same name. Two years ago I had some time to kill in Bangkok, waiting to visit the Chatuchak Weekend Market. So, I decided to grab a bus from the Southern Bus Terminal and enjoy the 2 hour ride to Kanchanaburi, scene of the Bridge on the River Kwai, and the Death Railway.

Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi was more than I had bargained for. The whole area is a monument to the thousands of Allied and Asian prisoners of the Second World War who died in a forced-labor camp, while building the rail link from Thailand into Burma (The Death Railway). This is a must-see place for history buffs. It’s also an incredibly scenic destination that’s great for trekking.

Hellfire Pass, on the Death Railway

Hellfire Pass is located a little ways out of town from Kanchanaburi, but worth the short bus ride. The Australians have built a beautiful museum there. Also, you can walk for miles along the original rail bed, built with hand-tools by the prisoners. The trek is a communion with the spirits. You feel their presence everywhere.

Back to Bangkok

I took the train back to Bangkok, breaking up the trip at Nakon Pathon to take a look at the largest Chedi (bell-shaped pagoda) in Thailand, and have lunch at the local market. Arriving Bangkok, the train left us at the Thonburi train station (Bangkok Noi). Just walk towards the river and wait for a ferry to take you to the other side. From there, It’s easy to connect with the public boat or catch a taxi.

Side Trips

This is a first in a series of “Side Trips”. Although this weblog is focused on shopping the outdoor markets of Southeast Asia, we also like to wander-off, every once in a while. Let us know what you think…with your comments. Thanks.

Calcutta, India

According to our definition, Asia shopping trekkers roam around Asia for all the usual reasons, plus a few more:

FIT (Free Independent Travel)

We are independent to a point, and don’t always enjoy traveling with the group. We like the one-on-one approach to meeting people along the way. Sometimes tour guides act as a barrier to making contact with local people. Visiting outdoor markets solves that problem. It’s an easy way to make contact. It’s also fun.

Arts and Crafts

We definitely like to check out the local arts and crafts scene at the outdoor markets. It gives you a good insight to what the people are about. Like everywhere else, people express themselves by what they do. The purchases remind us of these experiences, long after we leave a city or country.

Focused Travel

The outdoor markets are usually located in the center of town (although not always). It makes it easier to decide on a hotel if we identify the location of our target market. Once we are tuned into the market and hotel locations, we can then plan to visit other attractions. Hopefully, most of the interesting places will be within walking distance of your hotel.

Trekking

Maybe trekking is too strong a word for what we do. If so, how come we are so tired at the end of a day, after visiting the market and other tourist sights? It takes a lot of energy to walk the neighborhoods of most Asian cities. You have to be physically fit.

Note: In a future posting, we plan to discuss trekking to hill-tribe villages in the mountains of northern Thailand.

Saving Money

By utilizing Low-cost carriers (LCCs) to fly around the area and staying at clean, moderately priced, air-conditioned hotels (cheap & good), we save the bulk of Aunt Nelly’s inheritance for another trip. Walking is also much cheaper than taxis.

Please feel free

…to comment on the above. We appreciate your ideas.

Chiangmai, Thailand

While in Chiangmai, don’t overlook a trip to the Hang Dong/Ban Thawai area. They’re both great places for arts and crafts shopping. Located about 20km south of central Chiangmai, the two towns (villages) are within walking distance of one another. You could walk from Hang Dong, into Ban Thawai, without noticing it. The selection and price of many of their items are better than what you might see in Chiangmai.

How to Get There

The easiest and most convenient way would be to book a taxi to take you there, and wait to bring you back. But, be careful, it could be expensive if you don’t know the going rate. Try stopping in one of the many travel agencies near your hotel and ask how to arrange it and how much to pay. In Thailand, I always ask three people (at least) about directions and prices.

You could also check with the major hotels, if they have shopping treks for their guests to Hang Dong/Ban Thawai. Who knows, they might have a couple extra seats in their van.

Try to avoid the public transportation for this destination. Getting out there involves a transfer or two. Unless you have been to Chiangmai before, this could prove challenging.

What You’ll Find

Lot’s of great stuff:

* Teak wood carvings, furniture, mirror/picture frames
* Stone carvings
* Ceramics
* Hand woven fabrics
* Antique reproductions
* Hand painted, decorative rice pots
* Ceramic vases and statues
* Much more + lunch

Just a Note

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Chiangmai, Thailand

Chiangmai, Thailand is a great place to shop for arts and crafts, and the friendly atmosphere of the Sunday walking market makes it a lot of fun. It’s a weekly event. They close off a group of connected streets in the old city on Sunday afternoons, from about 3:00PM until late. People come in from all over northern Thailand to sell their wares at small roadside stalls along the market route.

Note: After attending most Sunday markets over a three year period, I still don’t know the exact times of operation. Nobody does. You don’t worry about time in Thailand.

Location

The market area is situated in the middle of the old city, surrounded by a watery moat on all sides. It’s a short walk to the main gate of the old city from most hotels. It’s called Tapae Gate (Pratu Tapae in Thai). You can’t miss it. This is a good starting point. From here, just follow the crowd. It can get a little busy after the sun goes down, so it’s best to arrive around 3:00PM if you want to see everything being offered.

Articles for sale

We are not talking about furniture or architectural items at this market. Those items will be covered in a later posting about Hang Dong and Ban Tawai, also in the Chiangmai area. Most of the items offered here could be carried in your luggage or hand-carried on the plane.

You can see many examples of:

* Hand-woven wall hangings/table runners from Laos, Burma, and Thailand, of either silk or cotton
* Cotton clothing of all kinds, including hill-tribe designs
* Ceramics and teak carvings
* Traditional Buddhist oil paintings, and secular designs
* Hand-crafted silver jewelry
* Hand-made paper from the mulberry tree (Sar paper)
* soap carvings & scented candles
* and thousands of other interesting items

Watching, walking, and eating

This is also a great place to do some serious people watching. You’ll observe all kinds of folks, from Buddhist monks in their saffron robes, and hill-tribe ladies in their native costumes, to pony-tailed American refugees from the 1960s.

Wear comfortable shoes, you’ll be doing a lot of walking.

We found the best food stalls were located on the various temple grounds inside the market area. Try Pad Thai (fried noodles with bean sprouts, tofu, etc.– wrapped in a thin egg/omelet casing).Yes!

Bottom line

Don’t miss the Sunday walking market. It’s not only a great shopping venue, but a rich cultural experience as well. However, if you can’t get to Chiangmai on a Sunday, you can always visit the night market on Changklan Road, where many of the big hotels are located. They’re open for business most every night, selling similar items. However, it’s more touristy and the prices are a bit higher.

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Luang Prabang, Laos

Everything is negotiable. How many times have you heard that? The rough rule of thumb in Asia is:

* If an article is for sale at a roadside stall, outdoor market or small shop, the price is negotiable. There usually are no price tags on the items.

* If an article is for sale in an air-conditioned shop or shopping mall, with the prices displayed, the “fixed-price” law will take effect…..maybe. Sometimes you might be offered a “special price”.

If you have never bargained before, the first time can be a little intimidating. Like anything else, once you get used to it, it can become a fun experience and a simple way to connect with the local people.

First Things First

Just relax, smile, and ask the price. Never accept the first price. I usually make a funny face and pass a friendly comment about how expensive the item is.

Now, if you are interested in purchasing the item, it’s your turn to make a counter offer. Forget about how the price compares to what you might pay back home. That kind of thinking isn’t really valid, especially since you already paid a lot of money to the airlines to get where you are.

If you are serious about purchasing the item, you might want to offer 50% of the asking price and wait for the next offer. From then on it gets interesting because the merchant now knows you are a serious buyer.

Close The Deal

It’s OK to walk away from a purchase if the merchant doesn’t meet your price. His or her feelings won’t be hurt. If it’s an expensive item and you want to be sure of the current market price, you will soon get a good idea after talking to 2 or 3 merchants.

However, don’t even think about walking away if the merchant accepts the price you asked for. That would destroy all the goodwill you had built up during the bargaining process.

Many people continue the bargaining by cutting the merchants counter offer by 50% at a time:

If the seller asks for $40.
The buyer offers $20.
The seller asks for $30.
The buyer offers $15.
Etc.

If you want to buy more than one of the same item, it might be good idea not to mention it until after you have arrived at an acceptable unit price. Once you are satisfied with the price, this is a good time to ask for an additional discount for multiple purchases.

Bottom Line

Keep a smile on your face, relax, and enjoy the experience. Bargaining in Asia is like the weather in New England. If you don’t like the price offered, wait a few minutes. It will probably change.

We will be offering additional bargaining tips in future postings. So, please stay tuned.

Luang Prabang, Laos

I think this was an Asian shopping adventure that sought us out, and not the other way around. In both Bangkok and Chiangmai, whenever we asked about the traditional, hand-woven, silk tapestries, we were told of their origin — Luang Prabang.

Getting there

Luang Prabang is one of those places where the low-cost airlines don’t fly….yet. So, from Chiangmai, we had a choice between a bus or a slow boat down the Mekong River. We took the boat and traveled the river southeast for 2 days. Of course, you would never confuse this boat with the Carnival Cruise Line, but it’s one of those adventure experiences you’ll never forget.

Compact and neat

Once there, the discomfort of the boat trip was quickly forgotten. Luang Prabang is a UNESCO world heritage city of less than 20k people, located on the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Everything is within walking distance. In fact, it’s a great place to walk. There’s even a high hill right in the middle of the city that’s a good workout — by anyone’s standard.

Most of the old homes and temples have been restored. There are plenty of “cheap & good” guesthouses available. You can see the whole place in a couple of days, but you might want to kick back and stay one or two days more. But, be careful. The coffee, French bread, and pastries are all very addictive.

Shopping

There are plenty of the traditional silk tapestries available, along with an abundance of other arts and crafts including silver jewelry, carvings, and paintings. Don’t miss the night market. Although, it would be difficult to miss — right in the middle of everything. It’s a great shopping, social and eating experience. You’ll enjoy the social interaction with the local people. They’re not bothered by any language or cultural barriers. But, don’t forget to bargain. It’s expected.

During the day, at very little cost, you can also hire a taxi to take you out to the villages (not far) to watch the weavers and other artisans at work. You will probably get better prices in the villages.

Bottom line

Luang Prabang is a terrific source of arts and crafts. It’s also a great place to visit and trek. But, it is a little out of the way. You can buy many of their goods in Bangkok and Chiangmai at a slightly higher price, but you won’t get the experience of visiting Luang Prabang. It’s worth the extra effort.

Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia (Borneo)

Does it matter?

I had often asked myself, what is the difference between a guesthouse and a hotel in Southeast Asia? From what I have been able to figure out, there is no real difference. A guesthouse is usually a small family-operated hotel. I guess it’s called a guesthouse when the owners want to convey a homey image. The same small place would probably be called a hotel if the same owners wanted to appear more corporate. I don’t know.

The real difference

Whatever you want to call it, it’s either cheap & good or it’s something less than that. As we mentioned in a previous posting, finding a decent place to stay (on a budget) in most large towns or cities in Southeast Asia is not a difficult process. However, you should put together a mental list of what is acceptable and what is not. If you haven’t made a reservation, have the taxi drop you off at a central location where there are plenty of places to stay — and is within walking distance of the outdoor market and other attractions. Just tell the room clerk what you want, with a verbal list of your preferences. If they have it, fine, go take a look. If they don’t have it, there usually are plenty more places down the street. In the last 4 years of roaming around Southeast Asia, we have always found a room that fit our preferences.

The usual drill: clean, attached bathroom, air-conditioning, less than US$25 (per room) per night, near the outdoor market.

But, beware….

As in your home country, looks can be deceiving. Always inspect the room, prior to accepting it. Also, even if we are staying more than one night, we insist on paying for one night at a time. You never know if the room next to you might be rented to a brass band that likes to practice at night.

Bottom line:

Guesthouse vs. Hotel? It doesn’t matter. What does matter is you find what you want and are comfortable with that find.

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